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TOURIST ATTRACTIONS

Check out Merdeka Square, the colonial center and site of Malaysian Independence (1957); Chinatown, showcasing kitschy outdoor markets; the nearby Batu Caves, a shrine to Hindu deities; and the Golden Triangle, a busy commercial center boasting the Petronas Towers - the world’s tallest building.

Browse around or click on the links below to go directly to the place you're most interested in. Bored of the same old historical touristy stuff? Well, for a taste of modern KL, go to the Projects page or for the ultimate in high-tech, visit my MSC page:)

BATU CAVES

Lying just north of Kuala Lumpur not far from Templer Park are the Batu Caves, another visually enchanting natural marvel. Carved out of limestone, these meticulously sculpted caverns are sacred Hindu shrines. Nevertheless, visitors are allowed to visit daily. Inside you’ll find a Hindu Temple, as well as an art gallery featuring mythological Hindu statues. Discovered in 1878, the Batu Caves are part of a large limestone outcrop and house several items of religious significance to Hindus. An exhausting, 272-step climb, during which scores of cute but aggressive monkeys beckon for munchies, brings you to the Temple Cave, which features a Shrine to Lord Subramania, a Hindu deity. Inside this cave it is dark, damp, cool and a little eerie, but nonetheless spectacular. If the climb up is too daunting, The Museum Cave on the ground level has bright paintings of Hindu gods and other mythical figures. Real coconuts are sold at the bottom of the steps, too, as a refreshing treat after the climb up and down.

The most fascinating time to visit the Batu Caves is during the festival of Thaipusam, which usually falls in January or February. This remarkable festival features hundreds of Hindu devotees who make a journey from a river near the bottom of the steps up to the Temple Cave carrying on their shoulders "kavadis," huge, half-wheel-like structures which are hooked into the devotees' skin. Some devotees also pierce their tongues and cheeks with sharp skewers. This is done to reflect gratitude for blessings received or penance for past sins. It is an awesome, if not gruesome, sight.

CENTRAL MARKET

A bridge across the Sungai Klang links the Dayabumi Complex to the CENTRAL MARKET. Fifty years ago this site was occupied by a wet market. Today, the art-deco structure of the Central Market is a cultural center for the display and development of Malaysian culture, arts and crafts as well as a haven for local artists and craftsmen. The specialty in this large covered enclave is Malaysian handicrafts. Many stores at Central Market sell clothing and other goods made from the colorful, traditional Malaysian batik - beautiful and, in most cases, hand-drawn and hand-printed fabrics. Batik makes wonderful shirts, dresses, ties and handkerchiefs. The shops and stalls within the extensively renovated building offer a heady  variety of antiques, Asian artifacts, curios, souvenir items and handicrafts. Portrait artists and small-time craftsmen set up shop in various corners and proceed to work, oblivious to the stares of curious onlookers. The riverside amphitheatre outside is the venue for regular performances of traditional and contemporary dances and musical concerts. There are many performances, demonstrations, and activities offered here, including batik painting, fortune telling, shadow puppet plays, glass blowing, dance classes, art classes, and many others. A unique place to venture and perhaps pick up curios and antiques for a bargain.

Central Market is also home to one of the many Royal Selangor outlets. Royal Selangor is the largest and oldest manufacturer of pewter products in the world, having been established since 1885, and its factory is located just outside the center of the city. In fact, the factory is included on most city bus tours and offers the most comprehensive assortment of goods at its adjoining gift shop. Royal Selangor's origins are grounded in Kuala Lumpur's history as the "tin" capital of the world; thus, a stop in one of its stores is a somewhat symbolic visit to KL's commercial past. Today, they make everything from mugs and coasters to letter openers and picture frames.

Next door is CENTRAL SQUARE which houses a Cineplex, antique and souvenir shops, fast food outlets and restaurants. The complex is an extension of the development concept embodying the Central Market project and involved the rehabilitation of a row of old pre-war shophouses.

DATARAN MERDEKA
SULTAN ABDUL SAMAD BUILDING

While KL is a display of modernity, the city by no means has disregarded its past. To the contrary, some of the most brilliant sights of KL are embedded in history. Indeed, one of the most picturesque spots in the city also happens to be the most historically significant: Merdeka Square.

The elitist Royal Selangor Club (it only allowed whites) was party central during the early days of British colonialism. Booze and cricket were the main attractions. All that changed in August of 1957, when the British flag came down and the Malayan flag was raised. The area became known as Dataran Merdeka (or Merdeka Square) and hosts the festive National Day celebration each year.

Formerly known as the Selangor Turf Club, the Dataran Merdeka (or Independence Square) - the scene of the annual celebration of independence - was once the focal point, and cricket green (incl. hockey, tennis, and rugby matches), of the British colonial presence in Malaysia. Appropriately enough, it was here, in front of the impressive and oft photographed Sultan Abdul Samad building, with its unique Moorish architecture and foreboding clock-tower, where the Union Jack was lowered, the Malayan flag hoisted up for the first time and Tunku Abdul Raman declared the country independent from Britain at 12:01 am on August 31, 1957. In front of thousands of jubilant Malaysians, Tunku Abdul Raman led a famous chant: Merdeka! Merdeka! Merdeka! (Independence!) signaling Malaysia's independence as a nation. A grand parade, in which just about every major Malaysian organization participates, from the local post office to multi-national corporations (and in which outlandish costumes seem to be de rigueur) is held once a year to mark the occasion of the nation's birth. It is appropriately known as Merdeka Day.

A 100-meter flagpole , the tallest in the world, marks that spot with a flat, round black marble plaque. It is located at the southern end of the square majestically flying the national flag. Beneath the newly returfed and attractively laid out Dataran Merdeka is the Plaza Putra, an underground food, leisure and entertainment complex. The Royal Selangor Club, overlooks Merdeka Square. This quasi-Tudor style timber structure was built in 1890 and remains a place to watch a round of cricket on a Sunday afternoon.

Also at Merdeka Square is the Royal Selangor Club, an old colonial bastion where the British elite used to wine and dine. Its Tudor-style exterior is quite a contrast to the Middle Eastern-looking Sultan Abdul Samad government building across the square, but it is nonetheless representative of Malaysia's colonial past. You can sometimes catch a game of cricket being played on the grounds in front of the club, which is still a private hangout for the upper echelons of KL society.

Across the road, the gleaming copper domes and 130-meter clock tower of the Sultan Abdul Samad Building are by far the most impressive architecture feature of the Dataran Merdeka, flanking it from one end to the other. Like the town itself, it incorporates a wide mix of cultural styles in its architecture and in particular, Moorish styles. This elaborate edifice is a fantastic blend of Moghul, Moorish, Arab and British neoclassical architecture. Designed by architects Norman and Bidwell, the building took more than two years to build and was completed in 1897. It served initially as the center of British colonial administration in Malaysia. Today, it houses the Judicial Department (Supreme and High Courts) on one end and Infokraf, a center for Malaysian handicrafts, on the other. At night, the building looks as if it were plucked off the Las Vegas strip, with bright lights running up, down, and around every wall as the whole building is lit up as if it were Christmas, making an excellent photo opportunity. Click 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 for another view.

DAYABUMI COMPLEX

The massive white modern complex of the famously expensive Dayabumi Complex (picture) was designed to blend in with the pervading Moorish and Byzantine atmosphere of the earlier establishments surrounding it providing an excellent example of the marriage between modern technology and ancient cultures. The building is criss-crossed with latticed grillwork inspired by Moorish Islamic architecture. The complex houses a shopping arcade, City Point, offices and the General Post Office.

ISTANA NEGARA

ISTANA NEGARA (picture), the official residence of the DYMM SPB Yang Di-Pertuan Agong (The King) is located on a hillock at Jalan Istana. The formal grounds is enhanced by immaculate green lawns and formal gardens ablaze with blooms. A lily-filled pond contributes to the serene atmosphere. The palace is also the venue for official functions and ceremonies. On ceremonial occasions, the palace and its grounds are gaily lit-up.

KUALA LUMPUR RAILWAY STATION (OLD)

The KUALA LUMPUR RAILWAY STATION, located at Jalan Hishamuddin, provide further examples of Moorish inspired architecture (picture 1, 2,  or 3). Architect A.B. Hubback continued to feature arches, domes and minarets with relish, creating what has come to be described as a Byzantine Arabian nights fantasyland. It was built in 1910 and underwent extensive renovations in 1986 which also linked it to the General Post Office at Dayabumi. It is equipped with air-conditioned waiting halls, snack kiosks, money changing booths, souvenir shops, restaurants and a tourist information counter. Across the street is the MALAYAN RAILWAY ADMINISTRATION BUILDING, another fine example of the British colonial adaptation of Moorish architecture. It is linked to the station by an underground thoroughfare. The railway station was transferred to the spanking new KL Sentral in Brickfields on April 16, 2001.

LAKE GARDENS (TAMAN TASIK PERDANA)

Located off Jalan Parlimen, Kuala Lumpur Lake Gardens (Taman Tasik Perdana) is the greenbelt of KL, the city's most popular and scenic park, and a green sanctuary nestled deep in the city center with a host of attractions, many of them unique to the region. Built in the late 19th century around an artificial lake, it encompasses 230 acres of undulating greenery interspersed with flowering shrubs, shady trees, exceptional botanical gardens, flowers, lakes and other notable features. There is a children's playground, jogging tracks, exercise stations, and rowing boats. The popular gardens offer plenty of recreational opportunities and attractions. Among the notable gardens and places of interest in the Gardens are the following:

The Orchid Garden showcases thousands of international varieties of the most beautiful flower in the world. The garden contains over 800 species from Malaysia alone.
The Hibiscus Garden is a small terraced garden which provides a strikingly colorful panorama of countless varieties of hibiscus.
The Butterfly Park houses some 6,000 butterflies of over 120 species. The park is an imitation of the butterfly's natural habitat. It includes more than 15,000 plants from 100 species that have been used to recreate a Malaysian rainforest atmosphere.
Bird Park, the largest bird park in South-East Asia, holds thousands of tropical and exotic birds representing nearly every major species of this part of the world.
Deer Park is located in the undulating slopes and sprawling valley of the Lake Gardens. Close to the bubbling stream at the edge of the valley are several mousedeer. The mousedeer is the world's smallest hoofed animal and a popular figure in local folklore due to its legendary wit.

TUGU NEGARA (picture) means National Monument. The Malaysian National Monument, which commemorates the struggle to resist Communist aggression in the 1950s and early 60s, is also found in the Lake Gardens. The massive sculpture honors the memory of those who gave their life in the battle and is one of the largest freestanding bronze sculptures in the world. Tugu Negara mirrors precisely the famous monument depicting the fall of Iwo Jima.

CARCOSA SERI NEGARA - Set within 40 acres of landscaped gardens and perched on a hilltop overlooking the Lake Gardens is Carcosa Seri Negara, a pair of nineteenth- century British colonial mansions. The resort's two mansions, Carcosa and Seri Negara, were built in traditional colonial style at the turn of the century for the British Governor of the Malay States and his honored guests. In October 1989, both mansions were administered together forming what is now Carcosa Seri Negara and opened to guests from around the world. There are seven suites in the Carcosa Mansion and six in the Seri Negara Mansion.

PARLIAMENT HOUSE - Standing on elevated ground commanding a panoramic view of the Lake Gardens is the modern Parliament House with its distinctive oval-shaped windows. It is situated in one of the greenest and most beautiful areas in KL and is superbly lit at night. The main building and its adjoining tower block accommodate the two houses of Parliament, a banquet hall, library, various offices and committee rooms. Visitors may view Parliamentary sessions by prior arrangement with the authorities, who will advise on protocol and dress code.

National PlanetariumNATIONAL PLANETARIUM - One of KL's latest attractions, the planetarium offers visitors a better insight into mankind's new frontier, outer space. Located atop a hill in the Lake Gardens surrounded by the National Mosque, National Museum and the Bird Park, this center for Space Science Studies is indicative of Malaysia's efforts to create a scientifically and technologically-inclined society. It is also a fun way to spend an afternoon. Among the attractive facilities that can be found are the Space Theater, Space Science Exhibition, Theatrette, Resource Center, Viewing Gallery and Ancient Observatory Park. A Space Science Show and Sky Movie is screened daily at the Space Theater. There is also a working observatory equipped with a 14-inch telescope. Don't miss the extraordinary lift ride that will give you a spectacular bird's-eye view of Kuala Lumpur.

MASJID JAMEK

Near Dataran Merdeka are two important mosques, the Masjid Negara (National Mosque) and the Masjid Jamek (Jamek Mosque), which stand as prominent symbols of the country's religious history. As is custom for Muslims, a call to prayer occurs five times a day, and many Malays break their work day at each calling. Emanating from the mosques at these times is what is known as the "azan," a sing-songy chant -- sung by the "muezzin" -- that echoes over the area. Friday prayers, held in the afternoon, are the cause of many a traffic jam in KL as worshippers rush to the nearest mosque.

Masjid Jamek, which dates back to 1909, is KL's oldest mosque. Located in Jalan Tun Perak, this Moorish mosque - inspired by the Indian Muslim style of architecture - rests on the confluence of the Klang and Gombak Rivers, the birth-place of Kuala Lumpur. This is the very spot where the first settlers of Kuala Lumpur in search of tin built their shacks. The red-bricked structure of Masjid Jamek features attractive gold onion-shaped domes, numerous arched colonnades, and shiny marble floors designed by A.B.Hubback. See history of KL.

Mosques welcome visitors to peruse the grounds as long as they wear the appropriate garments, which are provided at the entrances. (Both men and women must cover any "bare" body parts, such as arms and legs, and women are asked to cover their head.) Unlike the Western church, where the interior is clogged with pews, mosques offer an airy floor space on which to kneel, and men and women worship in separate compartments. Although prayer times provide a unique opportunity to observe Islamic worshippers, and listen to the azan, you will not be allowed into the premises of any mosque at these times unless you are a Muslim.

MATIC

The MALAYSIA TOURIST INFORMATION COMPLEX (MATIC) at Jalan Ampang, was formerly known as the TUANKU ABDUL RAHMAN HALL. Built in 1935, it was originally the mansion of a Malaysia planter and tin-miner. It served as the headquarters of the British Army in 1941 and later the Japanese Imperial Army. One of the numerous historical events to take place under its roof was the installation of the first Yang Di Pertuan Agong. After undergoing extensive restaurant, this building now houses the tourist information complex which include an exhibition hall, information counter, mini auditorium, a restaurant and travel services counters.

NATIONAL LIBRARY

Located at Jalan Tun Razak. The blue-roofed building was inspired by a tengkolok, the traditional Malay headgear, and songtet, a richly-designed brocade fabric. The library is a very recent addition to Kuala Lumpur, having opened only in 1992. The extensive holdings include a collection of publications on Malaysia by Malaysian authors as well as ancient Malay manuscripts.

NATIONAL MOSQUE

The National Mosque, with a capacity of 5000, is situated among five acres (13 hectares) of beautiful gardens. Originally built in 1965, it was recently refurbished, and now features marble floors, reflecting pools, fountains and a 73-meter high minaret, sleek and stylish against the Kuala Lumpur skyline. An underground passage leads to the boldly modern National Mosque located near the railway station, along Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin. Its bright blue jagged rooftop, designed in the shape of an eighteen-pointed star, has the appearance of a partly opened multi-fold umbrella-like roof which symbolizes the aspirations of an independent nation. Its unique modern design embodies a contemporary expression of traditional Islamic art calligraphy and ornamentation.

NATIONAL MUSEUM

The NATIONAL MUSEUM just outside the Lake Gardens, is a palatial structure built in style of old Malay Architecture. Located atop a hill at Jalan Travers, it  provides an interesting introduction to the history and culture of Malaysia. Built in the style of a Malay palace, its impressive facade of two large murals depicts scenes of the country's colorful past and rich culture. Inside are interestingly laid out displays and exhibits on local history, culture and traditions, arts and   crafts; economic activities; local flora and fauna; weapons and currency.

The museum houses various galleries, each with its own theme. The Historical Gallery traces the different periods in the history of Peninsular Malaysia. The Cultural Gallery is a collection of various aspects of the Malaysian culture, from common everyday pastimes to important ceremonial customs. Included in the exhibits are a Malay wedding scene, a royal circumcision ceremony, and an presentation on the heritage of the Straits-born Chinese. The Metalwork and Musical Instruments Gallery showcases various objects and utensils from kitchenware and ceremonial ornaments to weapons and traditional instruments of Malaysian music.

Other galleries include the National Sports Gallery and the Natural History Gallery. Outside, are old locomotives, vintage cars and other relics of transport from days gone by. Reconstructed Malay palaces from others parts of the country also grace the expansive grounds. The National Museum also holds regular thematic exhibitions featuring specific aspects of life and culture from all over the world.

NATIONAL SCIENCE CENTER

Located in Bukit Kiara, the huge geodesic dome of the National Science Center provides an aptly futuristic setting for nine galleries depicting various scientific exhibitions. A fusion of modern architecture with Islamic design, a space theme park at the National Science Center presents a Space Science Show and Sky Movie on a 20m diameter dome screen. Other facilities include an exhibition hall, observatory with a 14-inch telescope and viewing gallery with binoculars.

NATIONAL ZOO & AQUARIUM

Thirteen kilometers north-east of Kuala Lumpur is the National Zoo. The National Zoo is home to countless varieties of rare animals, reptiles, and birds, all of which are contained within a vast landscape of specially recreated gardens. The Aquarium at the back of the zoo contains an exotic array of multicolored tropical fish. Tours are available daily.

PETALING STREET & CHINATOWN

PETALING STREET - The heart of Kuala Lumpur's original CHINATOWN and a bustling night market serving as a bargain hunter's paradise and one of the premier shopping areas in the city with its distinctly oriental atmosphere. Petaling Street maintains much of its traditional atmosphere, particularly at night when vendors spread their wares out on the street. While it is possible to purchase anything from gems and incense to toys and t-shirts here, enjoying the night market is really a matter of just wandering about and enjoying its sights, sounds, and energy. Incredible bargains amidst a melange of signs, shops, noise and roadside food stalls open until the wee hours of the morning. A must for any tourist. Another scene of KL's famous night markets.

At the end of the street is the CHAN SEE SHU YUEN TEMPLE which dates back to 1906. The interior of this highly stylized building features open courtyards pavilions, intricate carvings and paintings. Outside, elaborate glazed ceramic sculptures grace the facade and roof ridges.

The SRI  MAHAMARIAMMAN TEMPLE at Jalan Tun H.S.Lee, is close to Chinatown. Built in 1873, the temple is said to be the most ornate and elaborate Hindu temple in the country. The design and decorative features include intricate carvings of Hindu deities, gold embellishments, precious stones and hand-painted motifs. Exquisite Italian and Spanish tiles provide further ornamentation. A silver chariot housed within the premises features prominently in religious processions, transporting the statue of the deity through the city streets.

CHINATOWN

While KL's mosques connote an air of calm and solace, no place better symbolizes the opposite end of the city spectrum - the break-neck speed of commerce - than Chinatown.

Malaysia's Chinese population, some 30 percent of the country's total, immigrated to Malaysia as early as the 15th century, but largely in the 19th and early 20th century, capitalizing on the spice trade of the Melakan Straits as well as running Malaysia's tin mines - once the country's main source of income. The Chinese immigrants were hard-working and entrepreneurial, and today, Malaysia's Chinese are at the center of much of the country's commercial activity.

In Chinatown, you can witness in this commerce first hand. Indeed, along Petaling Street, the heart of Chinatown, you will see just about anything and everything being sold. Values can be had, as bargaining is most definitely the order of the day. Along Petaling Street, one word may come in particularly handy: "setengah," which means "half." Locals will often yell out "setengah!" as soon as they hear the first price a vendor offers. It is a practice worthy of imitation.

Chinatown is a fun place to explore, with a myriad of narrow alleyways and a variety of shops. One of the most interesting shops is the Chinese herbal medicine store. Here you will find hundreds of herbs and roots that are all meant to remedy any ailment and/or promote general good health. Coming down with a cold? The storekeeper may just recommend that you boil fresh ginger or hyacinth beans in water with sugar.

SULTAN SALAHUDDIN MOSQUE

If you are really fascinated by mosques, one of the most impressive is the Sultan Sallahudin Mosque, one of the largest mosques in Southeast Asia. Located in Shah Alam, about 16 kilometers outside of KL, it is huge and magnificent -- with an enormous, dark blue cone-like dome and four pronounced minarets pointing to the heavens. Its interior is also open to visitors at non-prayer times. The Sultan Sallahudin Mosque is adjoined by a small man-made lake, which makes it a particularly serene setting, especially at sunset.

THEAN HOU TEMPLE

On special occasions of national significance the palace is transformed into a fairytale land of glittering lights.  On a hilltop overlooking Jalan Syed Putra is the magnificent THEAN  HOU TEMPLE-one of the largest Chinese temples outside the Orient. The grandiose structure represents a successful combination of modern architectural techniques and authentic traditional design featuring imposing pillars, spectacular roofs, ornate carvings and intricate embellishments.

TUNKU ABDUL RAHMAN PUTRA MEMORIAL

The TUNKU ABDUL RAHMAN PUTRA MEMORIAL, located at Jalan Dato' Onn, is dedicated to the memory of Malaysia's first Prime Minister, YTM Tunku Abdul Rahman Putra, who is also known as Malaysia's "Father of Independence". Housed in a sprawling complex consisting of three main buildings, the memorial offers visitors a deeper insight into the life of a respected world leader and his legacy that continues to inspire the present generation.

MODERN MALAYSIA

Not surprisingly, downtown KL is an excellent place to witness the fast-paced, "Modern Malaysia." One need not venture very far to get a glimpse of the Petronas Towers, which are currently the world's tallest buildings located at the junction of Jalan Ampang and Jalan P. Ramlee.

Actually, a better place to get a view of these behemoths is at the observation deck of yet another modern attraction off Jalan Punchak in downtown, Menara Kuala Lumpur -- the tallest in Asia. This beacon of pink rises 421 meters above the ground and boasts, aside from spectacular views of the city and its environs, the highest McDonald's outlet on earth, according to the outlet manager. In the event a burger and fries just won't cover your hunger, there's also a fancy revolving restaurant at the top, serving lunch (at about RM50, or US$13), high-tea (RM30/US$8) and dinner (from RM70/US$18) every day. Reservations are recommended, especially for dinner.

Another modern-day wonder, although not unique to Malaysia, is the mega-mall shopping complex. They're popping up throughout KL and the suburbs in ever increasing numbers, and it's unlikely an out-of-town visitor will not run smack into one, either by chance or on purpose. In downtown KL, one of the newest and most impressive is the multi-level Star Hill shopping complex, located in the so-called "Golden Triangle" district, a busy cross-section of streets lined with shops, hotels and businesses. Many of the fancy and well-known international boutiques are located here, such as Gucci, Christian Dior and DKNY, as well as a huge variety of shops and restaurants. Even if you don't buy anything, a stroll through Star Hill can give you a sense of the young, hip, modern Malaysian scene. This place is often jam-packed, especially on weekends, and will no doubt continue to be that way...until the next new, trendy complex comes along.

Finally, the road down Modern Malaysia might just drop you off onto the main thoroughfare of Jalan Sultan Ismail at the Benson & Hedges Bistro -- a true testament to the cafe life. Interestingly, most of the cigarette manufacturers in Malaysia have set up side businesses, such as travel agencies and restaurants, as vehicles for advertising their brands (cigarette product advertising is banned.) Thus, establishments like B&HB. If you can stand the possibility of being politically incorrect, B&HB actually has a very trendy atmosphere, with funky tables and couches, and serves up a fine assortment of food and coffee drinks. With caffe latte and mocha cappuccino on the menu, you can probably tell that this place oozes hip.

WHEN NIGHT FALLS... KL AT NIGHT

Like many of the world's capitals, KL lights up at night. After all, this is the time to be outdoors, after the extreme heat of the day has worn away.

One of the most colorful and lively events is the pasar malam, or night market. These take place at certain places across the city on various days of the week. The pasar malam has a very social, almost carnival-like atmosphere, although many of the goods on sale are of a practical nature, such as fruits and vegetables. In fact, the night market is an excellent place to come if you wish to sample some of Malaysia's exotic, tropical fruits. Some of the most unusual include the jackfruit, an enormous fruit that looks a bit like an elongated-watermelon and tastes a bit like a persimmon, but with a rubbery texture; the rambutan, which looks like a hairy grenade on the outside but encloses a super-sweet, lychee-like fruit on the inside; and the mangosteen, a juicy, white fruit encased in a purple peel. Of course, there is also the durian, the so-called King of Fruits, with its notorious smell and creamy textured, onion-like taste. One popular pasar malam in downtown KL takes place along Jalan Tunku Abdul Raman on Saturday evenings, from about 6 p.m. to 11 p.m.

For a bit of culture, albeit manufactured for the tourist crowd, Restoran Seri Melayu offers a buffet dinner of local cuisine and 45-minute "cultural show," which includes a variety of traditional Malaysian dances that originate from places such as Kuantan and Sabah. These colorful and ornate displays give the visitor a chance to witness a way of life very different from the city hubbub. The Malaysia Tourist Information Complex, located across from the New World Hotel, has a similar cultural show every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday at 3:30 p.m.

There are also many bars and discos, many of them located in the downtown hotels, such as the Hard Rock Cafe at the Concorde Hotel. Outside the city center, two areas are particularly well-known for their "night scene," especially among the expatriate community: Damansara Utama and Bangsar. Damansara Utama is the place to go if you want to catch some live music. Indeed, one of Malaysia's hottest young musicians, Amir Yussof, owns and plays on Fridays and Saturdays at a small place called X-tasy. The music here, usually a mix of covers and originals, is most accurately described as acoustic rock n' roll. At Bangsar, you'll also find loads of chic restaurants and busy bars, among them a traditional Irish pub, such as the newly-opened Finnegans, and Ronnie Qs. Both Damansara Utama and Bangsar also offer the perennial karaoke lounges.

FOOD, FOOD AND MORE FOOD... LOCAL CUISINE

Whether they're busy shopping, sightseeing or exploring nature, visitors are bound to work up an appetite. Luckily, KL has a lot to offer in the local food department. In fact, Malaysia in general, and KL in particular, has an exceptionally wide variety of cuisine available. Each group prepares its own type of food with distinctive flavors. Most Malaysians will tell you that they love to eat. There's ample reason why.

One of the best places to sample local dishes is at the many, many hawker stalls scattered throughout the city. Most of these are located outdoors, but they are also found in the indoor shopping centers, such as Central Market or Star Hill. In either case, variety is the norm: noodle dishes, rice dishes, hot and spicy food, fried and greasy food, soups, salads and more. An extremely popular Chinese specialty, served mainly at lunch, is chicken rice. Simple but delicious, it consists of a chopped chicken leg or thigh over rice with a spicy chili and garlic sauce on the side. An equally popular and delicious Chinese dish is fried kway teow, a stir-fry of spicy black bean sauce, egg and noodles, with shrimps or mussels and a few sprouts thrown in for good measure. The cost of these dishes rarely exceeds RM4 (US$1).

Malay food is sometimes described as a blend between Indian and Thai. Throw in a little Indonesian and even Chinese influence, and you might be close. One example of a typically Malay dish is nasi goreng, essentially fried rice with a potpourri of additions, such as egg, dried sardines, peanuts and veggies. Mee goreng is a close cousin: fried noodles with chili sauce and fixings. Satay is also a Malaysian favorite; chicken or beef nuggets cooked on a skewer over hot coals and served with a spicy peanut sauce. All Malay food is halal, roughly the Islamic equivalent of kosher.

For an Indian specialty, one of the local favorites is roti canai (pronounced "row-tea, chuh-nye"), basically fried dough, kneaded into a thin, flaky pancake. It comes with a choice of "dipping" sauces - sometimes lentil, sometimes curry - and is generally eaten with the hands. In fact, many Malays and Indians prefer to eat with their hands, and you will see it being done with skill and relish. However, only the right hand is used for eating. Roti canai is usually served for breakfast and in the evening, but often not for lunch, when the banana leaf meal is the norm. Actually, the term banana leaf refers to the "plate" that is used to serve the meal, which includes an assortment of bryanni rice (a colorful, mixed rice), green bean and sprout salads, fried chicken or fish, curried mutton or beef, and the like. The idea is to pick and choose, buffet style. One piece of roti canai is usually under RM1 (US$0.25), while a banana leaf meal usually runs RM8-12 (US$2-3). Indian food is sometimes an offer at hawker stalls, but restaurants serving these dishes are never far away.

While sampling local cuisine at hawker stalls is a must, KL also offers a host of unique restaurants. Of special note is Bon Ton, which, in addition to offering quite a fine grounds-eye view of the Petronas Towers, specializes in traditional Nonya cuisine. "Nonya" is a reference to the early female Chinese settlers of Melaka. These earliest Chinese immigrants to Malaysia picked up many of the local customs upon arrival, including language and food; thus, Nonya cuisine is a unique blend of Chinese and Malay cuisine. Bon Ton is located in an old mansion and has a charming interior with tasteful oriental furnishings.

Also of interest, especially for those yearning for a slab of beef, is the restaurant and bar at the Coliseum Hotel on Jalan Tunku Abdul Raman. The atmosphere here is pure colonial past, and the white-clad, no-nonsense waiters -- as well as the somewhat shabby state of the premises -- just add to the notion that you've stepped back sixty or seventy years. The specialty is the "sizzling steak," a huge potion of sirloin or T-bone that is sizzled in butter and gravy on a hot plate right before your eyes. Most people shield their body with the white tablecloth as steam billows from their plate for several minutes. A visit to the Coliseum is as much an experience as it is a hearty, delicious meal.

Finally, for the more refined experience, there's Carcosa Seri Negara, KL's most elegant -- and expensive -- overnight stay. Formerly the official residence of Britain's colonial administrators, Carcosa Negara has hosted many foreign dignitaries, including Queen Elizabeth. Each suite comes with two private butlers and a balcony or verandah with a splendid view. Those wishing not to spend the up to RM2,500 (US$650) per night can nonetheless enjoy a sophisticated "afternoon tea " for RM28 (US$7) in the main dining room, overlooking the lovely gardens above the city.

OTHER NATURE ATTRACTIONS

To get a real sense of the tropical rainforest, one might consider going out to the Forest Research Institute Malaysia (FRIM) in Kepong, about an hour' s drive away from downtown. Set among a lush, dense rainforest, FRIM offers several walking paths, an impressive waterfall, an informative museum, and an exciting canopy-walk high up between the enormous trees. Templer Park, fourteen kilometers out of the city along Jalan Ipoh, is similar and also has many walking paths and trails through what was once a botanical reserve. Given their proximity to the equator, and thus survival through various global ice ages, Malaysia's rainforests are among the oldest in the world, some 150 million years. FRIM and Templer Park provide an excellent opportunity to witness their wonder, even if the trees are just 150 rather than 150 million years old.

Farther away from KL, but also a wonder of nature, are the fireflies at Kampong Kuantan, near Kuala Selangor. From sundown until 11:30 p.m., the local community at Kampong Kuantan run a series of small, gondola-like boats that go back and forth over stretches of river lined by trees filled with thousands of fireflies (known locally as "kelip-kelip.") In the mating call of the male fireflies, the blinking lights are amazingly synchronized, providing the viewer with a spectacular, natural light show. This is apparently one of the few places on earth where this phenomenon occurs. The boat trip itself, which lasts about half an hour, is a calm and relaxing ride. A trip out to Kampong Kuantan, some 56 kilometers from KL, takes well over an hour, so it usually makes sense to combine it with a dinner at one of Kuala Selangor's fine seafood restaurants. Be forewarned that the fireflies tend not to show themselves in full force when it rains.

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